stitches if you begin to knit, but if the stitches are not lifted from adjoining needles, there will be a little opening between the rib and the solid work.
Lower the cam a little and knit about 100 rounds for the leg.  The ankle may be narrowed by raising the cam a little as you did for the rib top.  This will tighten the stitch.

TO KNIT THE HEEL

FIRST PART.   Turn the machine until the cam is in front; raise up one-half the needles out of action on the back part of machine.  See marks on inside of cylinder.  Take out the set-up and weight, and with the heel hook, (bent wire with two hooks) catch the work inside the cylinder close up to the needles in front, on which you knit the heel.   Attach the weight to the heel hook, place the take-up spring F under the yarn between C and D.    It will now appear as in Fig. 2.
Knit one course to the right, passing all the needles in action through the cam and out under the switch to the left.   The carrier will now be on the back part of the machine.   Now raise one needle on the right side of machine next to the carrier, the last needle to pass under the switch, then knit another course backward until all the needles in action have passed through the cam and out under the switch to the right.   Then raise one needle on the left side of machine next to carrier, the last needle to pass under the switch.  Then knit forward and backward each time raising one needle until you have raised all the needles except ten in front which are in action.  Always allow the yarn to pass around on the outside of the needles just raised to prevent any open places in the heel, and be sure the slack thread is taken up when reversing, either by the take-up spring or your fingers, and also to hold the work well down as the needles are making stitches.
SECOND PART.   Continue knitting backward and forward as before,

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